The key is knowing what helps—and what definitely doesn’t; our experts have answers
By Jessica Dostie
Does skin become more sensitive and reactive over time?
Yes. While skin sensitivity can happen at any age, the passing years are definitely a factor when it comes to a greater risk for redness. Why? “With time, the skin barrier weakens, making it more vulnerable—thinner, drier, and more easily irritated,” says Dr. George Christodoulou, a Montreal dermatologist.
These effects are often more pronounced in women, adds dermacosmetologist Lydia Gauthier. “Menopause is hard on the skin,” she notes. “The hormonal impact is not the same for men; changes related to andropause appear more gradually.”
Does prolonged sun exposure exacerbate skin sensitivity?
Yes. The role of UV rays is well documented. “The best way to reduce skin sensitivity is still prevention, in particular with rigorous sun protection,” Christodoulou says.
“Using a quality sunscreen with a high SPF, wearing protective clothing, and avoiding prolonged sun exposure are essential precautions. It’s also crucial to limit your ex- posure to smoke and pollution and to stay well hydrated.” Gauthier adds, “Choose a texture you like rather than a particular brand or type. The important thing is to apply it!”
Should you avoid anti-aging agents like retinol if you have sensitive skin?
Yes and no. Retinol, derived from vitamin A, has demonstrated in multiple clinical studies its ability to erase wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, but its drying and irritating effects are also well known. In short, it usually doesn’t work well for people with sensitive skin—but that doesn’t necessarily mean they have to miss out on its benefits.
“What’s really irritating is pure retinol,” Gauthier says. “In recent years, we’ve seen products that contain encapsulated retinol, which causes a lot fewer reactions. You may also have heard of vegan retinol, called bakuchiol, a non-photosensitizing agent.”
Are natural products containing essential oils okay?
No. Christodoulou recommends avoiding skin-care products containing plant extracts, essential oils, and perfumes, as these often trigger irritation or even allergic reactions. “Instead, choose cleansers and moisturizers that are gentle and pH balanced and contain few ingredients,” he says.
Is there anything you can do to calm things down if your skin is reactive?
Yes. You should review your whole skin-care regimen to minimize skin irritation and dryness. Gauthier recommends first trading your bar of soap for shower gel or oil.
“If your skin feels tight when you get out of the shower, that’s not a good sign,” she says. For the face, a micellar water or a cleanser formulated for sensitive skin will work well. “Many products now contain new-generation foaming agents made with coconut oil.” She also suggests not washing your face in water that’s too hot. Above all, be sure to exfoliate (such as with an AHA lotion), which helps creams and serums penetrate the skin. Finally, use unscented laundry detergent.
Editors’ Picks
Here are five products—from new arrivals to classics—you can try to give your sensitive skin some TLC.
NO RINSING
This creamy makeup remover with a delicate floral-fruity fragrance doesn’t dry or irritate the skin—perfect for daily cleansing. Uriage Roséliane Dermo-Cleansing Fluid ($24 at drugstores).
SOFT SKIN
For an even complexion, choose this exfoliant made with glycolic acid; the formula contains soothing allantoin, a healing agent, to reduce that tingling feeling. Reversa Exfoliating Solution ($38 at drugstores).
FRESH MIST
This easy-to-use soothing mist—the flagship product of a Japanese brand that recently arrived in Canada—is infused with ceramides and moisturizes instantly. Perfect for those who don’t like the feel of lotion. Curél Deep Moisture Spray ($29.99 exclusively at Shoppers Drug Mart).
DOUBLE SHOT
This half oil, half aqueous-solution concentrate reduces not only signs of aging but also redness. It promises to reduce the feeling of discomfort in 30 seconds. Bioderma Sensibio AR+ Bi-Serum ($47 at drugstores).
ULTRA-LIGHT GEL
This non-greasy body moisturizer refreshes overheated skin as it hydrates and soothes irritation. Its key ingredient, colloidal oatmeal, also strengthens the skin barrier. Eucerin Eczema Relief Hydrogel ($23 at drugstores).
