By Vanessa Fontaine and Jessica Dostie
This is the secret to glowing, younger-looking skin
The dead cells that accumulate on the skin’s surface give it a dull and rough look; exfoliation removes those cells. There are two options: mechanical and chemical. Mechanical exfoliations, or scrubs, use friction—massaging the skin with a product that contains grains of sand, salt, or ground fruit stones, for ex- ample. Chemical peels use acids to dissolve unwanted cells.
“Both methods are effective,” says Nathalie Pelletier, director of Research and Development, Scientific Affairs at Jouviance. “That a product uses chemicals doesn’t mean it’s dangerous. Glycolic acid, which is often used in facial peels, comes from natural plant extracts.”
The two methods can be used separately or together. “We can start by removing dead skin from the surface with mechanical exfoliation—a kind of polishing—and then refine the removal of cells using chemical exfoliation, which results in very smooth skin,” says Geneviève St-Georges, a cosmetic formulator with Lotus Aroma.
With the dead cells removed, skin looks smoother and more radiant. And it can better absorb the active ingredients and moisturizers in anti- aging skin-care products.
Exfoliation also helps to reduce the appearance of age spots and to even out skin tone. In addition, “by removing the dead cells, you stimulate cell regeneration and the production of collagen, which has a youthening effect,” Pelletier says.
Frequency
“Cellular regeneration slows down over time,” Pelletier says. “Before the age of 40, two mechanical scrubs a week are enough, but after 40, I recommend three.” With chemical exfoliation, though, it all depends on the concentration of the product’s active ingredients and how sensitive your skin is. “There are no-rinse pads and night serums, for example, that can be used every day,” she says.
It’s important to cover the whole 1 area evenly, Pelletier adds. “People tend to massage the same places—
like the forehead and the cheeks— and overlook the rest. That’s why we 2 see age spots near the hairline, for example. You have to go everywhere.”
You can, however, focus on certain problem areas, St-Georges points out. “I tend to have rougher skin on my chin and my nose,” she says. “I go by feel and pay special attention to dry areas that need the most help.”
For the Body
The skin on the heels, elbows, and knees, which is thicker and rougher, calls for special attention, “but the 4 legs, arms, stomach, and chest are also important,” says Milada Prokopyeva, owner of Salon Boutique Milada in Montreal. The skin-care expert’s favourite tool is the humble scrubbing glove.
“You have to choose the right one—it shouldn’t be abrasive to the touch,” she says. “You can use it every day in the shower and about once a week in the bath.” After soaking the glove in a solution of water and a few drops of oil for about 10 minutes, she gently rubs it against her skin in a circular motion over her whole body. “You’ll see—it removes everything.”
Precautions
Pelletier notes that you need to be careful not to massage the skin too hard. “If you feel any discomfort, stop; otherwise, you risk causing irritation,” she explains. “And don’t forget about sunscreen! After the surface cells are removed, the new skin underneath is more exposed.”
She suggests choosing a product with an SPF of at least 30 that also contains vitamin C, an antioxidant, to better protect the skin from the elements.
The Right Stuff
Here are a few mechanical exfoliants—some for the body, others for the face—that have proven effective.
For the Body
1. Velvety texture
The shea butter in this scrub nourishes the skin, while shea husks remove dead cells. Yves Rocher Repair Organic Shea Butter & Organic Calendula Rich Body Scrub ($19.95 at yvesrocher.ca).
2. Morning wakeup
This exfoliant not only removes dead skin cells but also 3 helps improve blood flow and reduces the appearance of bumps. Lotus Aroma Draining Exfoliating Cream for the Body ($35 at drugstores and lotusaroma.com).
3. Refreshing scent
Dietitian (and Good Times contributor) Isabelle Huot has launched a line of cosmetics inspired by her expertise in nutrition, such as this scrub enriched with grape seeds. NU-RISH Fresh Mandarin Body Exfoliating Gel ($40 at nurish.ca).
4. In deep
A mechanical and chemical anti-roughness scrub, this product smooths the skin thanks, especially, to salicylic acid. Biotherm Biocorps Anti-Roughness Peeling Scrub ($48 at drugstores and biotherm.ca).
5. Delightfully floral
Now offered in La Maison Lavande’s newest fragrance, this is a gentle, foamy sugar-based exfoliant. La Maison Lavande Sugar Scrub in Grapefruit Blossom & Lavender ($19.95 at maisonlavande.ca).
For the Face
6. Natural microbeads
Made from bamboo powder and organic-olive pits, this cleansing facial scrub brightens the complexion.
Jouviance Hydractiv Exfoliant ($26 at drugstores and jouviance.com).
7. Soothing gel
As well as offering micro-exfoliation with the help of quartz particles and jojoba beads, this fresh gel is packed with soothing anti-inflammatory ingredients. OMY Laboratoires Tremella-Lite Micro-Exfoliating Gel ($29.99 at omycosmetics.com).
