Laser hair removal has evolved, but it’s not for everyone
By Jessica Dostie
1. Thanks to advances in technology, a dark complexion is no longer an obstacle to having laser hair removal.
TRUE. It’s a question of wavelength. The latest generation of machines, which have an Nd-YAG laser with a wave-length of 1,064 nanometres, are specifically designed to treat darker skin tones without the risk of burning, as long as they’re used by an expert. “It’s not advisable to use this type of machine on Caucasian skin, as the result will not be optimal,” warns Valérie St-Pierre, who teaches cosmetic procedures and hair removal at the Centre Antoine-de-Saint-Exupéry, a professional training centre in Montreal.
Other lasers on the market, such as intense pulsed light (IPL), which use shorter wavelengths, are effective for removing dark hair on a light complexion.
2. White hairs can’t be removed with a laser.
TRUE. For photoepilation (which includes laser and IPL) to work, the hair has to have a pigment. For that reason, this technique has no effect on white, blond, or red hairs. (The pigment in red hair is different from that in darker hair.) There’s only one option for getting rid of white hairs for good, St-Pierre says: electrolysis, also known as electric hair removal.
3. Laser hair removal gets rid of hair permanently.
FALSE. Even if the technician does everything perfectly, some hair and fine downy hair will still be visible after the 18 or so recommended months of treatments. Why? “Laser hair removal doesn’t remove all the hair,” explains Karine Girard, who teaches in the hair-removal program at Centre 24-Juin, a professional training centre in Sherbrooke, Que. “In fact, we say that it makes the hair smaller. In the long run, the colour of the hair fades and is therefore not reachable with the laser, but it’s still there. For permanent hair removal, you need to add electrolysis sessions at the end of treatment.”
4. Photoepilation is a good option for removing a few chin hairs.
FALSE. Because the areas to be lasered need to be shaved beforehand, laser (like IPL) is rarely the preferred method for removing facial hair, at least for women. “I find that electrolysis, which allows you to target each hair one by one, is much better suited to this part of the body,” Girard says. However, laser hair removal is increasingly popular with men who want to better define the outline of their beard.
5. Laser treatments are painful.
TRUE. However, the pinching sensation is tolerable. “Some machines are designed to reduce the pain, whether by a vacuum effect or by cooling the area being treated,” Girard says. Applying an anaesthetic cream before a hair-removal session isn’t recommended. “You must let the technician know if the discomfort increases or if the pain is too much to bear,” St-Pierre says.
6. Regular appointments are a key to success.
TRUE. For the best results, sessions should be every six to eight weeks to target as much hair as possible. Almost all of it—at least the darkest hair—should disappear after about 10 treatments. (The number varies depending on different factors, especially the amount of hair.)
7. You can have treatments even in the summer.
IT DEPENDS. As sun exposure isn’t allowed six weeks before and after each session, the best time to start a series of treatments is in the fall; this will allow you to coordinate your appointments so you can take a break during the summer, Girard says. However, she adds, “in summer, there is no problem with removing hair from hidden areas such as the armpits.”
8. Anyone can receive laser-hair-removal treatments.
FALSE. Laser treatments are contra-indicated in several cases, such as for people with diabetes, epilepsy, or heart disease, as well as for someone taking immunosuppressants, cortisone, or photosensitizing medications. To be sure you’re eligible, talk to a health professional before booking an appointment. For the same reason, the hair-removal technician has a duty to conduct a full assessment, including a medical questionnaire, before deciding on a treatment plan. If no assessment is planned, run!
9. Only certified technicians can offer laser-hair-removal sessions.
FALSE. The practice of photoepilation and electric epilation is largely unregulated in Canada. Check that the person doing the treatment has a recognized diploma, St-Pierre says. “Even if you’re using a device approved by Health Canada, you have to know how to use it,” she points out.
10. Prices vary widely.
TRUE. It’s hard to give a general estimate. Costs depend on not only the size of the area of the body to be targeted (hair removal on the legs or the back will be more costly than in the armpits, for example) but also the technology used and the city where you live. A good way to save money is to make an appointment at a hair-removal clinic in a professional training centre.
