By Jessica Dostie
Because of retinol’s proven benefits, more and more beauty brands are adding the ingredient to their anti-wrinkle creams
Retinol is among the most widely studied active ingredients in cosmetics, and many scientific research studies have confirmed its antiaging effectiveness. “Retinol is a form of vitamin A that acts both on the surface as well as below it,” explains Toronto dermatologist Geeta Yadav. “In addition to accelerating cell renewal, it penetrates to the dermis to stimulate fibroblasts— cells that are responsible for the production of collagen.”
Retinol’s established benefits include improved skin texture, more radiant and firmer skin, the reduced appearance of wrinkles, the mitigation of dark spots, and a reduction in blemishes. The ingredient also helps with the effects of skin aging and repeated exposure to UV rays that become visible on the face, neckline, hands, and feet.
“Retinol has much more to offer than just anti-aging effects for the face,” says Dr. Andrea Suarez. Skin- care products that contain retinol help to minimize the appearance of rough, granular skin caused by keratosis pilaris, reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (after an insect bite, for example), and even subtly smooth cellulite; however, Suarez warns, “for cellulite, don’t expect miracles.”
The Right Products
Can you simply apply your retinol-based anti-wrinkle cream to your neckline, neck, or hands? Not necessarily. These zones are drier than the face and, surprising as it may seem, can be sensitive and more prone to irritation. “The skin on the face generally tolerates retinol better than the body, as sebum creates a kind of protective barrier,” Yadav says.
To prevent redness and dry skin, many retinol-based skin-care products have active ingredients that hydrate, soothe, and nourish the skin all at the same time. “Choose formulas that contain humectants such as glycerine and hyaluronic acid, emollients such as squalane and jojoba, sealers such as Vaseline, and protective ingredients such as vitamins B, C, and E, antioxidants, and botanical extracts,” she adds.
Finally, protect your skin from the sun. “You should always apply sunscreen, but it’s even more important if you use retinol; it has a photosensitizing effect, even if you apply it before going to bed,” Yadav says.
Gradual Integration
How do you add a retinol-based product to your night-care routine? Here’s some advice from Gizem Tasyurek, senior scientist for Unilever Canada.
START SLOWLY. Because retinol and its derivatives (often called pro-retinol on labels) can cause irritation, start with a skin test on a small area. If everything looks fine after a few days, you can start using the cream once or twice a week before gradually increasing frequency until you’re applying it daily—at night, to maximize the benefits without being exposed to sunlight.
APPLY AFTER A SHOWER OR BATH. The best time to apply body lotion is after getting out of the shower or bath. To limit possible irritation, use a mild cleanser and avoid mechanical exfoliants, whose grains can be abrasive. A final tip: use warm water, as water that’s too hot can irritate and dry out the skin.
TARGET THE AREAS TO TREAT. There’s no need to apply lotion from head to toe. Often, a small amount of product is all you need on the parts of the body that require special care. For the rest of the body, your usual moisturizer will do the trick.
4 New Products
Here are a few options that are perfect for fine-tuning your skin-care routine.
