Nearly 400 years ago, a few intrepid souls, such as Marguerite Bourgeoys and Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve, left Troyes and the surrounding area to found the city of Montreal; come and discover one of the gems of France’s Champagne region
By Sylvain Lumbroso
Day 1
9 a.m.
Downtown Troyes has an unusual shape—that of a champagne cork! At the heart of this distinctive layout is the Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul (Cathedral of Saint Peter and Saint Paul), a Gothic masterpiece, adorned with gorgeous stained-glass windows, where the legendary Order of the Knights Templar was officially recognized by the Catholic Church in January 1129 during the Council of Troyes. Another must-see is the cathedral’s treasure trove, which contains the relics of Bernard de Clairvaux—a.k.a. St. Bernard—an influential monk of the time and co-founder of the order.
10:30 a.m.
Take the time to saunter through the Saint-Jean quarter, which used to be home to the famous Champagne fairs. In the Middle Ages, these events brought together merchants from all over Europe. Imagine stalls brimming with textiles, spices, and precious metals. Here you’ll find Saint-Jean-au-Marché church. A plaque near the entrance informs visitors that Marguerite Bourgeoys, who founded the first school in Montreal, was baptized there in 1620. The interior contains other elements related to this Canadian saint, including a statue and part of the staircase from the house where she was born.
12 p.m.
If you’re in the mood for a tasty snack, make your way to Chez Félix, which serves andouillette sausage, a Troyes specialty, along with Chaource, a local soft-ripened cheese. The restaurant is in the very old Ruelle des Chats, whose narrowness and half-timbered facades that converge at the top give it a medieval feel. If you imagine cats creeping from attic to attic, you’ll see how it got its name.
3 p.m.
Your next stop is the Cité du Vitrail (City of Stained Glass), which opened in 2022 and features superb stained-glass creations. This permanent exhibition explores the art of stained glass.
7 p.m.
Have a seat at Octave, 23, rue des Quinze Vingts, and let yourself be tempted by the menu featuring quality products. A reservation is required at this charming spot, especially if you want to be seated on the terrace. Dinner there is the perfect opportunity to share your impressions of the day and talk about the discoveries you made.
Day 2
9 a.m.
Head back to the cathedral quarter, this time to visit the Musée d’Art moderne de Troyes, located in the former bishop’s palace. It’s home to a spectacular collection of works of art donated by Pierre and Denise Lévy, who made their fortune in the textile industry, thanks mainly to the Lacoste brand. The couple wanted the collection to be showcased in the city that had a front-row view of the brand’s success. The gallery offers a full panorama of art through paintings, sculptures, and other works from around the world. As you make your way through the building, you can admire master- pieces of Modernism—the movement that turned the art world upside down at the beginning of the 20th century.
12 p.m.
A 15-minute walk from the modern-art gallery is the restaurant Aux crieurs de vin, a welcoming place that blends conviviality, local cuisine, and a bistro vibe. This authentic spot offers an elegant selection of natural wines and small gourmet dishes to share. Enjoy a glass of champagne—the grapes for this sparkling wine that goes with any celebration are grown just a few kilometres from your table.
2 p.m.
As you wander the streets of Troyes, keep an eye out for the magnificent and distinctive hotels, some of which date back to the 16th century. Also take the time to walk past city hall, on which is engraved the motto of the French Revolution: “Liberté, Égalité, Fraternité, ou la mort” (Freedom, Equality, Fraternity, or death). That last part of the motto, which is a little extreme, was later withdrawn. Here’s another good reason to visit city hall: it features a commemorative plaque that pays tribute to Paul de Chomedey de Maisonneuve, one of the founders of Montreal, who was born in a village very near Troyes. With this and other Canadian connections made, you can return to this side of the Atlantic with some lovely memories.
Getting to Troyes
You start by flying to Paris. Next, you have two choices: hop on one of the regional trains that leave from the Gare de l’Est, with frequent connections to Troyes, or use the company Aube Transfert, which waits for travellers when their plane lands and takes them directly there by car.
Where to Stay?
If you’d like to sleep in a 15th-century building, Le Champ des oiseaux hotel, located downtown, takes its guests on a trip back through time in the utmost comfort.
